Post 15 - Deep into Mexico

Efrat abramson
Feb 7
8 min read

Feb. 5, 2026

When we started the blog, we didn’t think too far ahead.

Everyone was so interested, and we simply wanted to share the places we reached, the landscapes, and the road itself.

From the very beginning, it was clear to us that we didn’t want to create the impression that everything was perfect, and that we would also share the challenging moments.

The difficulty, the fatigue, the illness, the less radiant days — they are all part of the journey just as much as the beautiful images.

This week, for example, we were sick.

At first, we thought it was just a mild cold and went ahead with our original plans, but we realized it was actually the flu.

It feels different to be sick in a foreign country, without Avital’s soothing soup - just the two of us, being there for one another.

Today we arrived in a city where we will stay for a few days, rest, and allow our bodies to recover.

This kind of writing also requires vulnerability, something I hadn’t fully taken into account - but it feels right to place it here, exactly as it is.

Lake Chapala

From the agave farm, we continued southwest toward Lake Chapala - the largest lake in Mexico. It is a vast freshwater lake, an important water source for the entire region, and one of the places with the most pleasant and balanced climate in the country. Not surprisingly, for decades it has attracted retiree communities, mainly from Canada and the United States.

We spent two nights at a campground that turned out to be a country club with an organized RV neighborhood. Many Canadians and Americans who come here for the winter- and some who stay for many years- keep permanent RVs, park them in these campgrounds, and create a stable community with a very relaxed pace of life.

We, on the other hand, found ourselves sleeping on a soccer field. Around us were abandoned RVs, and we had no idea if or when their owners would return. The grass was watered all day, which meant we were surrounded by water- and with it, clouds of mosquitoes. After two nights, we had had enough and moved on to another campground higher up on the hill, with a beautiful view of Guadalajara, the large city in the state of Jalisco, and American & Canadian neighbors who actually spend their winters there.

On the soccerfield and the abandoned neighborhood

On the way to the campground, we stopped in Ajijic - a picturesque and colorful town, considered the beating heart of the foreign community around the lake. The Canadian and American influence was felt almost everywhere: sourdough bread, carefully curated cafés, small galleries, and a beautiful, vibrant local market. At the market, we bought fresh vegetables, eggs, a wooden spoon, and a small rug for the camper's entrance, and we also stopped for lunch- a simple, spicy, and delicious meal.

The picture of the meal is made at "home", we also like to cook our own food

On Saturday, we took out the bikes and rode down to Chapala itself. We politely postponed thinking about the steep ride back up. We wandered around town, explored with curiosity, and cycled along the Malecón, the lakeside promenade.

There, we came across a powerful and mesmerizing traditional performance: five Mexican men climbed a very tall pole, tied themselves to it, and began descending upside down, spinning around themselves in the air. It is an ancient Totonac ritual- an extreme and fascinating spectacle that reminded me a little of old-time circuses.

We are beginning to understand where it was truly worth eating. We move away from the town center and into the side streets, where almost every corner has a small food stand, a few chairs, and a woman cooking on the spot. That was where the food was tastiest, freshest, and cheapest.

We ate lunch, rested a bit, and then began the ride back.

As often happens on this journey, Google Maps surprised us. This time, the route turned out to be a full-on off-road ride. A very bumpy dirt path, full of dust, but beautiful: cycling between fields, farms, low houses, and open nature on the outskirts of town. The climb back was tough. Guy was very happy, and I was dreaming of the real reward that was waiting - a hot shower, clean clothes fresh from the laundry, and rest from the dust that had found its way into every crack.

The next day, we continued our wandering eastward - slightly off our planned route - toward a special place:

San Miguel de Allende

San Miguel de Allende is a well-preserved colonial city that blends Mexican history, contemporary art, color, and a bohemian atmosphere. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to its beautifully preserved historic center, and over the years it has become a magnet for artists, creators, and an international community. We walked through the narrow alleys on foot and felt as if we had landed in a classic European city. The streets were paved with stone, the houses colorful, with ornate wrought-iron balconies, all inviting us to get lost within them.

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

The pink church — the city’s unmistakable symbol. Its neo-Gothic façade, in a peach-pink hue, was originally built in the 17th century, but what we see today is the result of a major renovation carried out at the end of the 19th century.

Around 1880, a local artisan named Zefadrino Gutiérrez, who had no formal architectural training, drew inspiration from postcards and images of Gothic European cathedrals. Without ever leaving San Miguel, he redesigned the façade in a neo-Gothic style, inspired by churches in France and Germany.

The church’s pink color comes from the local stone used to build the façade. What makes it unique is how it changes with the light, looking completely different at various times of day. It has become the symbol of San Miguel de Allende, appearing in almost every photograph, painting, and postcard, and serving as a gathering point for celebrations, processions, and, of course, tourists.

The Narrow Streets — and What They Hide

We got to know the narrow, winding stone alleys up close when we arrived and tried to enter our campground. Here too, Google Maps revealed itself at its worst, directing us down a one-way street and into a no-entry zone, causing a massive traffic jam and forcing us to reverse the Duba along a very narrow alley. It was exhausting and stressful. But once we finally parked and took a breath, we discovered houses painted in mustard, turquoise, pink, and earthy tones. Behind heavy wooden doors were hidden green inner courtyards, small galleries, design shops, quiet cafés, and artists’ workshops. Here, more than anywhere else, we felt the need to walk slowly, on foot, discovering the city step by step.

The Markets

We wandered on foot and reached two local, artistic markets where street food, flowers, textiles, ceramics, silver, papel picado (cut paper), and music blended together. They reflected the connection between living Mexican tradition and contemporary handmade creation — and, of course, some of them were also very touristy.

Funerals — Rituals of Farewell

As we walked through the streets, day after day, we encountered two funerals — or rather, powerful farewell processions.

In both cases, a vehicle carrying the coffin led the procession. In one funeral, behind the hearse, a pickup truck followed with a huge speaker and a DJ playing loud Mexican rock music, energizing a group of people walking behind the vehicle, dressed in somewhat bizarre costumes and dancing. Behind the costumed dancers were also people dressed normally, taking part in the farewell procession.

In the funeral we witnessed the next day, it appeared that the deceased had worked in the fire department. The procession began with a vehicle, followed by what seemed to be a fire brigade band, then the hearse with the coffin, motorcycles, people walking, and many fire department vehicles with sirens blaring, decorated with flowers. Watching these funerals led us to the understanding that things work differently here. The procession is a way to honor the identity of the deceased — who they were is expressed through the procession itself. The dancing and music are not, heaven forbid, disrespectful; quite the opposite. There is a statement here that emphasizes the life that was lived, not only the death. So people do not part only in tears, but also with dance, noise, movement, and a strong communal presence.

We observed an event that taught us a great deal about Mexican culture and its relationship with death. Death is not seen as an end point, but as part of a continuum — a passage to another world. This view has roots in Aztec culture, among others, where death is not perceived as an end, but as a transition. That is why farewells are not quiet and whispered, but accompanied by a great deal of energy, sound, and movement.

At the same time, the influence of Christianity is clearly visible: the coffin, the procession, the prayers. And another element that stands out is the presence of community. The person belonged not only to their family, but also to friends, neighbors, and their workplace — all of whom took part in the farewell. The ability to hold pain and grief together with life, and even joy, impressed us deeply and left us full of inspiration.

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After four days in the beautiful city, we decided to drive east — slightly off our route — to reach a special place:

Las Grutas de Tolantongo

This is one of the most impressive natural sites in Mexico: a deep canyon in the heart of the mountains of Hidalgo State, where natural hot springs emerge. Mineral-rich water flows out of the mountain into a warm turquoise river, creating small pools carved into the slope, thermal caves, a waterfall, and hiking paths through the canyon.

It is a rare combination of wild nature and soaking in hot water under the open sky. The place feels almost unreal, especially in the early morning hours or toward sunset.

We arrived there in the afternoon after a steep, winding, and rather frightening descent. We jumped into the warm river for a short soak, its water a vivid turquoise, and spent the night beside the flowing river, accompanied by the sound of trickling water. The next day, we climbed up to the cave, the waterfall, and the soaking pools located higher up on the steep mountainside. It's been very hard to choose from the photos so there are many of them: